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Heat Effects Tomato Harvest
By Tom LeRoy
County Extension Agent - Horticulture
June 5, 2007

Tomatoes continue to reign supreme over the vegetable world.
The tomato originates in parts of tropical America. In South America
the Aztecs called it Zitomate. It was highly prized by the natives
before the discovering of America.

Tomatoes grow wild in a climate that is mild and warm but the
nights are cool. This is the reason tomatoes suffer in our climate once
the night temperatures creep into the mid 70's. They have the same
problem with the heat that many of us do.

Each year we find ourselves with pretty much the same set of
problems when it comes to tomato culture. By this time the plants are
usually start showing signs of stress. The disease, early blight is
beginning to turn the lower leaves yellow to brown, and insects like
leaf footed bug and green stinkbug are disfiguring the fruit.
As soon as the night temperatures creep into the mid 70's it
means the end of tomato production. This vegetable comes from a climate
with cool nights and has come to require it (especially the large
fruited varieties). The shed of pollen needed for fruit set is linked
to night temperature. Cool nights results in lots of fruit. Warm night
(above mid 70's) and the flowers drop before fruit set occurs. As the
fruit remaining on the plant continue to ripen and with no new fruit
setting it won’t be long before the plants are bare. Small fruited
varieties such as cherry and Roma tomatoes don’t suffer from this
problems and can be used to carry you through until the fall plants
begin to produce.

Stink bugs and leaf footed bugs are having their way with the
tomato fruit. Leaving many of them unusable. These sucking insects
suck the juices out of the fruit causing the fruit to be misshapen,
covered with yellowish spots and poor in quality. This summer pest
moves in from the woods and fields near the garden for a tasty snack.
They are difficult to control and require frequent spraying. Products
like Sevin, Neem Oil (organic) and pyrethrin are labeled for use on
tomatoes and will help reduce stink bug problems. The important thing is
to start spraying early before the pest numbers build up and continue as
long as there are fruit on the plants.

It won’t be long before you must make the decision to remove
the plants altogether. If the plants look green and healthy (this is
very unlikely) they can be pruned back and saved for fall production.
If not, jerk them out once the last fruit have been harvested and start
fresh for fall.

Fall plants should be planted in mid-July. I realize this seems
early, but the plants will grow in the heat and be large enough to start
blooming when those first few fall nights drop to a brisk 70 degrees or
so and allow pollination to occur again. Planting your tomatoes too
late will result in lots of green tomatoes about the time our first
freeze hits in late November.


Don’t forget to send your garden questions to Plant Answers at
9020 FM 1484, Conroe TX 77303 or e-mail me at t-leroy@tamu.edu .
Educational programs of Texas Cooperative Extension are open to
all citizens without regard to race, color, sex, disability, age or
national origin.

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